Beara Way; Days 9-11 Adrigole to Glengariff to Kenmare to Killarney

Owen prepared nice Irish breakfast and fixed my walking stick which was bent in two places. Headed out at 9:30 thinking this would be an easy day but far from it. Walked a kilometer into town and then almost missed a narrow path into heavy woods. Walked for about ½ hour through wetlands and nettles having to climb several step ladders. Then walked up a steep hill where I was passed by a group of Irish day hikers. Turned left along a rural road and followed that realizing that there was another route change. Made sure I was still on the Beara Way by asking a local female farmer. Came to a turn into the mountains and saw the group near the top.

Before Glengariff

Pushed on getting to the first of several false peaks that day. Another very nice day. Not too hot or cold with no rain. Beautiful scenery throughout the walk. Finally made it to the final peak around 2PM. 2 groups coming over the pass just as I started down through lots of wet areas.

My clothes hanging over chairs on the main street in Glengariff.

Long walk down to the rural road taking me into Glengariff. Pretty tired so I stopped at pub and owner was standing out front. 30E for B&B so I said why not and they showed me the room which was not too bad. I got down and saw my name in the sign up book. Oh. This is the place I just cancelled this morning after Owen insisted I should not stay here. It turned out to be barely ok but I had no problem with it. The dinner and breakfast were ok. It started raining about 5-7 for the first significant rain in over a week.

Monday May 30:
Had breakfast with a nice German guy, Peter, living in Australia the last 30 years. He was biking to Kenmare. I left at 9 or so after collecting my drying clothes off the pub’s chairs out front. Had to walk on road for quite a bit but then veered onto an old rocky road up into the mountains and over the pass before descending into a green valley with lots of sheep and then following rural road to Bonane. Decided to hitch from there as it was the rural road following main roadway all the way to Kenmare.

Muckross Gardens on a beautiful Spring day

Sat on road for 10 minutes or so when dude in ragtop sports car stopped to pick up a couple 100 meters from me. They waved me over so I ran over and hopped in barely fitting with my backpack on my lap as the friendly group of Brits drove me into Kenmare dropping me off right at the Failte Hostel. Cleaned up with a hot shower this time and a nice pot of tea and relaxed celebrating the end of The Beara Way and a long 34 day trek from Dublin. Got a sandwich in town and sat outside with my tea. Sweet.

Back on The Kerry Way between Kenmare and Killarney

Tuesday May 31:
Well I finished Beara Way yesterday but it is such a beautiful day why not walk back to Killarney. So I did but got some help. A woman picked me up after dropping her son off at school and gave me a ride part of the way up the hill. With her help I made it to the high pass at 9:30. Another nice walk through high mountain bog land before descending to the Torc Waterfall and forests around Killarney Lake to Muckross.

Torc Falls

I then hitched from there getting a ride from another very nice Brit that took me directly to Black Sheep Hostel. Greeted warmly by Kevin and Hannah and then went out to Quinlan’s for Fish and Chips. Had the Cod but I was unlucky as it wasnt nearly as good this time. Others looked better. Oh well. Enjoyed the beautiful weather sitting in the garden in back. How nice to relax a few hours before the next adventure.

In Killarney after The Beara Way and The European 8 Trail from Dublin

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