Camino de Faros (Lighthouses) Day 3 Ponteceso to Laxe:

Walking out of Ponteceso early just after 7 it was a quiet and flat walk along the waterfront before eventually for the first and only part of this Camino leaving the sea to walk inland. The path veered inland through pine and eucalyptus forest following a gently flowing creek. After the 2 previous days of rugged walking this made for a pleasant change. After a few hours I reached Castro de Borneiro, the first manmade stop on this Camino. The site included 9th Century Celtic ruins.

Leaving the ruins the trail continued through the forest before crossing a paved main road and then following a narrow side road. Not long afterwards I came to The Dolmen of Dombate, a 5,000 year old burial tomb, very similar to the ones I have seen in Ireland. The big difference is that in Ireland the dolmen was out in the open looking much as it must have thousands of years ago. Here in Galicia they built a huge structure protecting the dolmen and keeping it indoors. I prefer the Irish style of leaving the area as it is. Unfortunately, the entry door was locked and the sign said Open at 11. Highly disappointed, I continued walking along the tall iron fence noticing there was a back gate. So I walked around a few homes coming out in back and sure enough found the maintenance gate open and ventured in. Then the building door was open so I was able to see the dolmen close up in my own private showing.

Walking back to the path I was startled by 3 dogs 6 feet above me on the flat roof of a house barking furiously at me. I was a bit nervous with visions of the dogs leaping onto my head, so relieved to get back to the trail. The trail then left the road and went up through the woods to Monte Castelo de Lourido. The highest point of Camino de Faros at 312 meters. There is no longer a castle there but the views were great despite the heavy clouds.

The trail then returned to the sea and back to the more typical rugged up and down coastal paths. It was cloudy and a bit cool walking into Laxe so I had a tea and croissant before cabbing back to Cabana de Bergantiños and Hotel Costa Verde. The inn was clean and comfy and inexpensive at €35. The nearby Casa Sabelo served up a pretty good Meñu del dia. 25K

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