Woke early at 6 and Asun had a nice breakfast of toast and tea and fruit for us. So humbled by her kindness and service to us despite her handicap.
Wonderful walking this morning taking us high above the River Sil. No bars but we had my fruit and there were 3 water stops. Came into Quiroga about 2:00 after walking 28K. Passed the municipal albergue but it is not peregrino specific and sounded loud with kids as the guidebook said so I walked on to Hostal Quiper which had a clean ample room above bar for €30.
Had delicious Menu at Restaurante Casa Aroza of charcuterie plate, small trouts which I ate whole, and then a Vienetta ice cream slice and she also put a bottle of 8 year old whiskey on the table. I asked her why afterwards. She said it was for the ice cream but I could easily have taken a belt or two.
Woke at 5:36 and left just after 6 on road through town and then veered up on gravel road up into the mountains. Long walk through pine forests up and down but beautiful views from high on the ridge. Made a few water stops briefly but pretty much went the 23K straight to Pobra de Broillon and had excellent bocadillo pancetta and cheese at Bar Avenida.
Then walked on leaving the Rio Sil Valley to beautiful hilltop town of Monforte de Lemos arriving about 3. Got an adequate room at Hostal Duquesa. No wifi. Clean but €50 and no desayuno. 36K walk.
We headed to the hilltop Parador and splurged on a delicious local Ribeira Sacra Valley wine. Wonderful spot to relax for a few hours after a long walking day. No other pilgrims around as this continues to be a quiet Camino. Monforte de Lemos is one of the top city stops on any Camino. This continues to be a beautiful and worthy alternative to Camino Frances from Ponferrada.