Day 6 Chantada to Lalin:
We left while it was still dark. The start was a bit chilly. Though after the heat of Camino Levante 10 days earlier we found it pleasant. Early on still in the dark we passed some eerie monuments; “petos de las ánimas” medieval crossroads signs with striking sculpted images of souls in purgatory.
Made it to Ponsillas about 10 for a tea break. A Spanish pilgrim was there, Angel, who left soon but then two other solo pilgrims arrived; Jose and Pepe. I laughed thinking this is a big crowd on the Invierno.
Then a 460 meter ascent to the Church of Our Lady of Mount Faro. The last part was up the road on a wide mowed grass path with 14 crucifixes for the Stations of the Cross. Workers were there so church was open.
Then we returned down the grassy path and continued on the paved road which turned gravelly offering beautiful views of the surrounding hills and valleys. Eventually we arrived in the small town of Rodeiro. First place in town was full so we went up hill 300 meters to Hostal Carpinteiras where they had a nice modern clean albergue with beds for €12 and double private rooms for 30. The Hostal was above a Bar Restaurante with a decent Meñu del Dia. 26K Walk
Day 7 Rodeiro to Lalin:
Left at 7:05 enjoying a beautiful walk mostly in nature and a few small villages with no bars or commercial shops. At one point we walked through a quiet forested area and came to a small river. Crossing the narrow wood bridge, I sensed there was something quite special about this place. A flowing lazy dark river which you could barely hear the music of the trickling water along with the faint sound of the wind blowing through the lush green leaves. The reflection of the sun glistened off the dark waters. Beautiful few moments. Nothing spectacular about this place but one of my favorite nature stops on this or any Camino.
Arrived in Lalin about noon and stopped at a bar with friendly owner for a coke. Decided to make it an easy day so we walked a few blocks to Albergue Centro Lalin. Took a private room for €30. Very cozy with a sunny enclosed porch. Walked out to Restaurante Cabanas just 150 meters. No Meñu del Dia, but I saw their Michelin posting on the wall and a local woman told us it’s worth the money. She was right as the foix gras opener with chestnuts, blueberries and Mencia sauce was fabulous. And the roast suckling pig was excellent as well. A Tibera wine from Castillo y Leon was a good complement to the delicious meal. Went back out at 7 for drink in plaza. Relaxing. 21k walk.