Another day which turned out much longer than anticipated.

Noko River

Ended up walking 40 kilometers (24 miles).


Struggled in urban area after getting a bit lost and tried hitchhiking to make up time as walking on pavement is tough on legs and feet. The Japanese are not into picking up strangers though.

Just after Temple 19. Rice fields at 7AM

Fortunately the first 500 meter ascent to Temple 20 was beautiful as was the descent back into another valley and up another 500 metersto Temple 21.

Following up Monk to main Temple 21

Not at all surprising, walking in the mountains and forests provided an energy surge. Then a bit of road walking and hills before arriving at my destination, a small 2 room inn which was really a home with 2 extra beds. Western beds. I am getting comfortable on the futons but a bed is preferred.

A few hundred meters below Temple 20 enjoying view of Noko River

Panda House is near Temple 22, Byodo-ji.


Am staying in delightful home of Kitamura Hideo and his wife, Chiyoni, who he affectionately calls, “My Panda”.


Their home, Pandaya, or Panda House, is next to a Shinto Shrine ⛩ that has several large old trees on its grounds. While Buddhism is a great religion, the quiet Shinto Shrines usually surrounded by beautiful nature are a wonderful place for this pilgrim to enjoy quiet meditation and reflection.


Their dinner was outstanding. The whole cooked onion was unusual but delicious.


They could not have been more friendly and accomodating helping me to plan for a long walk tomorrow and making a reservation. And they kindly told me that they were going to prepare an osettai picnic lunch and asked what I would like.

After dinner I visited the Shinto Shrine across the street and it is my favorite so far, surrounded by several large old trees. So quiet and peaceful. I prefer these calm oases over the sometimes bustling Buddhist Temples.

Following monk into Temple 21
One of the older monk Calligrapers writing into my Nokyocho at Temple 21
This is an Indian(Acala) and Japanese(Fudo Myoo) god
Main Temple 21
Temple 21
Ohenros leaving Temple 20
Gate to Temple 20
Temple 20

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Happy to answer any questions and help in any way.