Manaslu and Tsum Valley Trek- Days 7-9

Day 7 Lar to Chumling.

Serapa and Loposama

I arose early at 6 and walked in the cold to Serapa’s home climbing the ladder to her kitchen. She had the stove already going and when I asked to wash my hands, she prepared a basin with hot water. Heavenly. We enjoyed Tsampa Porridge with Yak Milk and tea. After eating, we said our goodbyes. This is one of those places I would like to stay for another night, but Lance is expecting us back.

Tsampa Porridge

Krishna and I walked 10 minutes to the new monastery and joined morning prayers in the new Gompa with 4 nuns. We then crossed to the other side of the valley and backtracked to Chumling. Dreading the dangerous steep section with loose pebbles, this time it didn’t seem so difficult. It was a quiet walk arriving back at Chumling around 2:30. 

Leaving Lar


Arriving early afternoon back in Chumling, I found Lance had switched to the other teahouse, the Chumling Hotel. He told me the owners were kinder and it was quieter. They also had a small son who would hang out at the restaurant. Lance explained that Yeshe, the young 25ish son of the owners of the other teahouse was the problem. He talked about money and things. The attitudes of some of the local people have changed in the past 30 years. I suppose it is no different from anywhere else.

I decided to walk back to the big hotel with the Festival Tent to say goodbye to Yeshe’s mother. I put some more sun cream on her nose and the baby’s nose to their delight. She then snuck me into the private monk entrance of the large Tent, and I, the only nonlocal, sat and enjoyed the dancing, music and rituals. Interesting but I prefer the quiet of meditation to these festivals. 

Today is the last day of Buddhist ceremonies and we get some photos with the villagers after they blessed us with white khata scarfs for good luck on our journey.

Lance and I wearing our Khata Scarfs with our new friends


Lance knee is still bothering him and he struggled to Lokpa and stayed with the 2 sweet sisters at the single teahouse there. Lance decided to stay a second night so I did as well enjoying his company as well as the conversation with the sisters and their brother. A German compound pharmacist was staying there for the night along with her American husband making for interesting conversation about western vs. eastern medicine. Lance is a chronic pain healer trained in natural healing.
Lance also mentioned that he was going to go to a Naturopathic Hospital in south central Nepal for a few weeks. I was planning to continue on to the Annapurna Circuit but I have walked that twice already. Perhaps I will join Lance as that experience sounds interesting.

Leaving Chumling


After 2 nights we checked out. I had enjoyed this stay almost as much as the night with Serapa and Loposama. The manager brother told me he only wanted 2000 rupees when my bill was 4200. I gave him the 2000, another 1000 tip and then gave Tenzin 500 for something for her baby.

We walked back to the fork connecting us to Manaslu and we said our goodbyes as Lance was returning the way we came while Krishna and I were continuing on towards Larkye La Pass at 5100 meters (16,732 feet). I felt sad to be leaving Tsum Valley. It is a magical place. Lance explained that Guru Rinpoche came to Nepal and Tibet in the 8th Century bringing Buddhism here. He also identified certain locations as being high energy spots and Tsum Valley was one of those. 

Sad to leave Lance but I am so happy our paths crossed and aligned for a few days. Krishna and I made it to Bihi Phedi just before the heavy rains came.

Our new friends posing for a photo
Goodbyes and a selfie with Loposama and Serapa
on the way to Lokpa
Lance and I with the German woman and her American husband
Serapa’s  Khawachen Hotel

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Happy to answer any questions and help in any way.